PILGRIMAGE , PILGRIMS, A PINK POPE AND FRENCH LETTERS

I read this on a blog the other day:

(http://billcork.wordpress.com/2008/07/19/adventist-pilgrimage/)

“Pilgrimage is universal. All faiths engage in it. Animists and Hindus go to sacred rivers, springs, wells, or mountains. Buddhists go to temples and to shrines encasing the Buddha’s remains. Muslims go on the Hajj to Mecca, visiting sites they associate with incidents in the lives of Abraham and Muhammad. Jews make aliyah to Jerusalem. Catholics go to the Holy Land, or to Rome, or to shrines associated with saints. And Protestants go on pilgrimage to the Holy Land and to locations associated with faithful men and women of all ages.”

And ... thousands go to Sydney – not because of a river, rock, spring or saint, but because the World Youth Day celebrations are being held there.

WYD Pilgrims have made news headlines all around the world this week and unless you have been in a catatonic state or in the depths of the Amazon jungles with no radio, television or newspaper, you will have heard something about the World Youth Day celebrations in Sydney Australia. Some reports say that 250 000 pilgrims descended on Sydney – others say 500 000.

Suffice it to say that there were a hellava lot of pellerins heading south including 39 Indians who absconded in New Zealand. It has been discovered that some were Hindu, some Sikh and even a few Muslims.

'Immigration New Zealand is investigating allegations that the disappearance of the pilgrims is part of an immigration scam. Some of those who are missing absconded from Auckland International Airport on arrival in New Zealand in early July, while others absconded from their billets, all but one leaving their luggage there, according to the Department of Labour."

One plaintive comment on the story was from an Indian living in New Zealand:

"dear sir, i am nanda kumar from auckland. actually i am from india. indians are spoiling our life."

Some pilgrims got sick: Chief executive Greg Rochford said the number of pilgrims suffering from influenza-like symptoms had reached 143 on Saturday morning.

Some were injured: In terms of medical emergencies, 84 people who identified themselves as WYD pilgrims presented to hospital emergency departments (ED) in the 24 hours to 10am (AEST) on Saturday. This brings the total of injured pilgrims to 326 since July 9.

The most serious injuries included a fractured femur in an elderly pilgrim, a fractured nose and a number of ankle and leg related injuries

Some got lucky! Any time Australia's biggest city hosts a major event -- from the 2003 Rugby World Cup to the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) summit last year -- it is boomtime for the sex industry, insiders say.

A protester from Queensland was set upon by a group of pilgrims when she held up a sign as the Pope’s convoy passed Dawes Point. The woman, Mary Adams, waited hours for the Pontiff to pass in the boat-a-cade, before holding up her handmade sign that said “Ratzinger condones paedophilia”.
Adams was yelled at by a group of pilgrims as soon as she held up the sign, and was forced to flee the area as the group continued to yell while trying to rip the sign out of her hands and shove her.

“If there was a God now, he would be crying,” she said.

Anti-Pope demos: More than 500 anti-pope activists faced off against happy pilgrims Saturday, shouting their distaste at papal policies as thousands of Catholic youth streamed past on their way to an evening address by Pope Benedict XVI.

The NoToPope coalition — some costumed as nuns, devils and priests — lined the edge of a park on the route of the pilgrims' march, tightly ringed by police on foot, bicycles and horseback.

Protesters pelted Catholic pilgrims with condoms Saturday as they made the most of a court ruling allowing them to "annoy" participants at the church's World Youth Day festival in Sydney. A pilgrimage walk organized for the festival took many young worshippers through the city's gay district, where about 500 people demonstrated against Pope Benedict XVI's opposition to homosexuality and contraception. Chanting "Pope go homo, gay is great" and singing "Pope is wrong, put a condom on", the protesters threw condoms at the pilgrims, who were making their way to Randwick racecourse for an overnight prayer vigil.

A drag queen dressed in pink going under the moniker "Pope Alice" also paraded before the pilgrims, while other protesters wore T-shirts with slogans such as "Thank God I'm an atheist" and "Bless me father for I am a homo".

But the young Catholics were at first merely curious, then smiled and waved and began their own singsong chant that carried down the ranks: "Benedicto! We love you!"

"We want to make it clear that we are not anti-religious, and we welcome the Catholic youth to our country," said Rachel Evans, a leader of the coalition. "Our gripe is with Pope Benedict and the hierarchy of the church."

The Fourth World Youth Day was held in Santiagio de Compostela and it was at that time that the beautiful and scenic Monte de Gozo was converted to the ugly barracks like Monte d' Eye Sore. I wonder what monstrous plans they have for Madrid

Pilgrims are a lucrative commodity in Spain.

On the 20^th July the announcement of the next city to host WYD will be announced. There has been much speculation that it will be in Madrid. WYD is held in a different city every two years. This means 2010 in Spain. That is also a Holy Year for St James in Compostela - can you imagine the millions of pilgrims who will be visiting Espana in 2010?? 10 million are expected for Santiago alone!!

SAINT JAMES AT YAHOO!

Only one post in the last 10 days - 15^TH JULY – from Rosina Wachtel

The Galician newspapers report that an average of 400 bona fide pilgrims are showing up every day in O Cebreiro. While the albergue there has been refurbished and enlarged there is no way that it can accommodate so many pilgrims.....( I wonder where they stay). It is also reported that about 70,000 pilgrims are expected to alight in Finisterra this summer.... which is why the authorities there have increased their search for those qualified persons who may be interested in "hospitalizing" and sponsoring? albergues in the environs.... apparently the authorities are ready to offer all sorts of assistance. (I am on my way to Santiago..... if you are interested in the possibility of starting up an albergue in Finisterra let me know and I'll find out as many details as I can.) The Archdofradia is very confident that Pope Benedict, presently in Australia for Youth's World Day will accept their invitation to go to Santiago in 2010, the next Xacobean Holy Year. Certainly a visit by His Holiness should liven things up a bit..... but if nothing else it will surely spur the powers to be to finish all the restorations begun at the Cathedral, the Dean's House (where the Pilgrims' office is), the newly acquired buildings etc. etc., consequently every one will benefit at the end. Lastly, while the refurbishing of the Dean's House will include repose areas for pilgrims in the courtyard, storage facilities for bikes, backpacks, and so on, an information desk on the ground floor and sufficient bathrooms, it will not, alas, include the originally planned coffee bar.
GO CAMINO:

Only one thread – a post about a guided walk on the Abraham’s Path:

A new pilgrimage path (not yet open to individuals, only escorted groups)
I am excited to share with you a special opportunity this fall - a journey on the Abraham Path through Jordan, Palestine and Israel, from October 4 - October 15, 2008.

Highlights of the 12-day journey:

• Walk pilot segments of the Abraham Path in Jordan and Palestine. To travel by foot is the finest way to experience a deep immersion in the local and traditional way of life.
• Visit local businesses, including a soap factory in Jordan where village women produce olive oil soaps using only natural and local ingredients
• Meet local residents and make one-to-one connections
• Possible home stays with Palestinian families
• Explore the rich history of Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and surrounding areas
• Learn from expert guides in each country
• Time to reflect, share and process the experience

This is an incredible opportunity to experience the warmth and hospitality of the Middle East in a way not often portrayed by the media. We encourage you to pass the word! Please forward this email and the attached brochure to others who may be interested. Limited space is available, so please notify me soon if you are interested.

Response from the lady from Moratinos:

“This is a wonderful idea. Be aware, though, that it costs more than $3,000 to take this ‘opportunity.’”

(Question: How do you end off a quote at the end of the sentence with a word that is also in quotes? Is it with three quote marks? Very odd - perhaps I should write to Lynne Truss!)

CAMINO SANTIAGO WAY OF ST JAMES offers English, Spanish, French and Italian Forums (no German yet – even with those from Deutschland making up the majority of pilgrims.)

From time to time I click over to one of the other forums just to see what they are talking about. Some of the Italian Forum posts have practically disappeared under an avalanche of porn links. It doesn’t look as though the Administrators – if there are any – ever clear away the porn posts.

Note: Isn’t it odd that Italians end their posts with Ciao Ciao which Google Translates as ‘Hello Hello’.

One thing that is international amongst pilgrims is the melancholy mood when one returns home.

Sono tornata ma vorrei essere ancora per quei sentieri. (I returned but I would still be for those paths.)

Quante cose potrei dire ma ho questa malinconia che non so definire- (How many things I could say but I have this melancholy that I do not know how to define)

Even on the English forum people post in all languages which I’m sure must piss off a few members. This month there has been Spanish (naturally) Portuguese, Italian and now Danish.

“350 chilometri, o forse qualcuno di più, da La Verna, dai boschi delle ultime propaggini della Toscana, alla bella e ampia valle di Rieti in Lazio attraversando i luoghi più significativi della ……”

“Man blir uten tvil bitt av basillen, og begynner å planlegge en ny tur straks man kommer hjem”.

On the Spanish forum – a very busy forum with a slightly different format to the others - there was a warning by a pilgrim about exploitation on the Camino Primitivo. I’ll paste it here in Spanish and you can do the cut-paste-google translate:

Queridos peregrinos:

He advertido anteriormente aquellos sitios en los que debemos pasar de largo, para que no nos tomen el pelo. Voy a enumerar unos pocos.

1º Casa Heminia en Campiello; etapa Tineo-Borres. Esta señora os recibirá con una agradable sonrisa, diciendo cuanto quiere a los peregrinos, que os sellará la Compostela, con frases como "Que Dios te lleve por el buen Camino peregrino", pero luego te da un sartenazo, que no esperas y te deja con cara de tonto. Mejor opción otro local enfrente.

Personal por si lo leyese Herminia (Soy Santiago de La Coruña, menos hipocresía y trata a los peregrinos, como a los clientes habituales)

2º En Pola de Allende, se come bien en La Nueva Allandesa, pero ojo, preguntar precios,por el menú minimo te cobrarán 15 euros. Son buenas gentes, pero es caro.

3º Albergue Juvenil El Castro. Está a 6 km de Grandas de Salime, bien situado, para la etapa del día siguiente, pero tambien ojo. Por la litera cobran 12 euros, pero preguntar precios de comidas, no os vayais a llevar una soepresa.

Personal para Mari Sol Dueña del Albergue (Amiga mia, no se`puede presentar esas facturas a clientes asiduos. No creas que somos tonto, a veces callamos por no advertirte de tú avaricia. No se puede cobrar 8 euros, por unas hojas de lechuga y cuatro jurelillos, y mucho menos 7 Euros por un par de cafe con leches con pan tostado de tres dias.

No creais amigos peregrinos que en todos los sitios os trataran asi. Afortunadamente quedan muchas personas honestas que os trataran como es debido. A continuación van unos ejemplos:

Casa Fernando en El Escamplero
Restaurante Narcea en Grado
En Salas varios de buen menú
En Tineo Hotel Don Miguel, o los Tres Chicos
En Fonsagrada casa Prado
Tambien hay buenos restaurantes y serios en Cadavo, Lugo y en el resto del Camino
¡Peregrinos no os dejeis tomar el pelo y denunciar los abusos.

This was one of the replies:

At that time you were?, I ask this because you wonder what Castro, I always stop in spring or autumn and always struck me as super correct, Herminia better not to speak (jeje) and Allandesa pa tastes good colors, I agree at all that you might as well add any more but I think we should not miss Arreigada in Grandas de Salime. A good option in Fonsagrada Casa Manolo is also serving beds, clean, cost-effective.

http://groups.msn.com/ElCaminoSantiago/messages.msnw

Someone from Argentina has joined the group trying to trace long lost relatives:

I am Raúl Rubén Fernandez Alsina, Argentinian, born in www.generalalvearmza.gov.ar, a land of farmers, ranchers and tourist at the foot of the hill Aconcagua (the highest of America the located in the province of Mendoza) and descendant of Spanish. My paternal grandfather was born in Villa Savariego (León) and his your wife (Amadora Nuñez) in Or Cebreiro as it she consists in his her papers.
The mother house of t is one is, nowadays, the Ethnographic Museum of Lugo and, for relatives' news, there is rented, for the Spanish Government, to a premium(cousin) of my deceased father of name Lily who possesses an inn or inn (I Do not know the use of the suitable term) in Relay Do Cebreiro. It is of our familiar (family) interest to contact ourselves with the relatives to initiate an union. I clarify that nothing imports the economic thing for us. We will remain extremely been grateful to quien/es could offer to us information of contact with them. Finally I add a current family photo.

Sorry Raúl Rubén Fernandez Alsina - your photo is not visible on this site so we can't see what you and your family look like.

PILGRIMS TO SANTIAGO FORUM

Busy, busy, busy Forum. If the Administrator got 1 cent for every hit he would be close a millionaire by now – well, almost.

Everybody should spend a bit of time watching the slide-show of photographs on the Home page. Some are truly beautiful and if you click on the photograph it will take you to the web page where the contributor’s album can be found.

Up-to-date posts include info on German Guidebooks – apparently the best available: Ryanair offering 1 million seats for £1 and a report on one lucky peregrine who got a £0 flight to Liverpool (wtmb): Car hire to Finisterre, walking for Charity, Phrase books, where to stay in Burgos and Paris amongst others.

The Whizz-kid pilgrim threw the full might of his gourd at another member for suggesting that his walk for charity was ‘commercial’ and challenged him to walk the walk for non-mobile children. Another pilgrim wrote a conciliatory post suggesting that, “Your tired legs will grow wings on them now”. (OMG – an avenging Mercury is all that we need!)

(PS: I really dislike words that start with non. Non-mobile: non-acceptance: non-committed: non-white and so forth. To me they are all non-sense and when referred to people suggest a non-entity.)

PPS: There are over 8OO unanswered posts on the Forum.

SANTIAGOBIS

..had 71 new messages in 7 days, 54 of those were in response to a post about “Walking in Sandals”. Scintillating stuff!!

If a new member joined Santiagobis today and wanted to read up on the camino he/she would have to scroll through 29 posts on the current page all with the same title - “Walking in Sandals”.

So – said new member clicks on ‘older’ hoping to find more interesting threads – what does he/she find? 17 more posts on “Walking in Sandals” and a few on “Introducing Myself”.

VIA FRANCIGENA http://groups.yahoo.com/group/via-francigena

Mot much action on the Via Francigena front:

• The Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome has now been registered as a "Friend" of the AEVF (European Via Francigena Association)
• Pilgrims Way to Rome Association - Netherlands. info@pelgrimswegen.nlThey have a list of walkers' and cyclists' websites and lists of
• · A small warning for anyone heading up the Col Grand St Bernard in the
  

near future.There is some major engineering work (de-silting) taking place in and around the Lac des Toules (the large reservoir to the south of Bourg St Piere). The work blocks the part-made road that runs from Bourg St Pierre across the face of the dam and onto the road and pathway to the west of the reservoir and also the path to the west of the Dranse. There are restricted access zones at both ends of the reservoir.
If you plan to pass through Bourg St Pierre you will need to take the steep and narrow path from the southern exit road from the village (near the old customs house) down towards the river (signed - walking route 70), cross the river and head up the west side of the Dranse
on the path normally taken by those that bypass BSP. Shortly after the small renovated house an improvised path has been created up a steep climb to the right to regain the old route at the dam level.

The already tough going is now even worse for mountain-bikers and it would be a real scramble for people with horses.
Unfortunately the only alternative is a long (by memory 3km) section of road gallery carrying the heavy traffic towards the tunnel entrance.
On the up-side (literally and metaphorically) an improved access road has been made between the quieter section of the main road (beyond the gallery and tunnel entrance) and the pathway beyond the southern edge of the reservoir - take the second wooden bridge. This gives the "faint of heart" or "short of wind" an easier option for the last 500 metres of the ascent.

So, now you can’t say you were not warned!
By the way, I saw on an earlier post on this Forum that, should you get lost/stuck in the mud/hit by an avalanche, gored by a bull, you can call 1515 - a 24 hour, toll free number for “…the emergencies of the pilgrim which the State Forestry Corps puts to disposition for all the pilgrims along the Via Francigena to request aid.
Don’t bother calling for the dogs and life saving brandy – they have been retired!





PS: My favourite sign - taken in a church in Zaragoza: