Saturday, 31 May 2008

A HORNY JENNET, A HEART ATTACK AND THE NOKIA RING TONE

The real news this past week is that a diabetic pilgrim crashed his bike and was taken to hospital, and that a 60 year-old English guy died of a heart attack crossing from St Jean to Roncesvalles. This was posted on most of the forums this week. Also, the weather has been bloody awful with cold and sleet and a prospect of hail in the Pamplona area.

http://www.caminosantiago.com/way_of_saint_james/pilgrims_forum.htm

Caminosantiago.com offers information on art, history, tips, a pilgrims’ forum, webcams, wineries, museums, natural landscapes, ecosystems, transportation, the route on horseback, bicycle route, restaurants, pilgrims illustrious ...etc.

It can now add pornography to the list! Someone, obviously pissed off with all the porno-posts asked: “I am just curious if there is anyone who can remove or block those annoying "posts" with links to all kind of por.nographic sites?....”
Nobody replied so sickos with usernames like Superman, Clerk Kent and Van Derm continue to post
links to porno sites.

http://groups.msn.com/ElCaminoSantiago/messages.msnw

"Good, informative and balanced TV program on the Camino de Santiago."

Was the post with a link to this video. Yippeee!! I love videos on the camino.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3lsFaKsfHQ

The program is hosted by César Vidal, with guests Francisco García, a member of the Asociación de Amigos del Camino de Santiago, and Ana Echevarría, a professor of Medieval History at UNED.

Yeah, well, maybe…. but dude, its all in Español. How many peregrinos on the English forums can understand rapid Spanish? Daahhh!!

And something for peregrin trivial pursuit.

Spanish Classical Guitar and the Nokia standard ringtone ...

The Nokia Tune is probably the most recognizable ringtone in the world. It was also the first musical ringtone for cell phones. But the Nokia Tune wasn’t an original. It’s a short clip lifted from the classical guitar piece Gran Vals. It was written by Francisco Tárrega in the late 19th century. Tárrega is often considered the father of classical guitar playing.
Listen for it at 15 seconds, and again at 2:56.

The Gocamino and Saint James Forums are just ticking over with an occasional post by Professor Rosina Wachtel but not many others.

Santiagobis has been very quiet. This little gem was posted last week - or is it just another Hemingway urban legend??

At the Hostal Burguete you can order Ernest Hemingway Soup and have a look at the piano with 'E. Heminway,' and ‘1923’ carved into it. The novelist stopped here to fish for trout as part of his trip to the Feast of San Fermin in Pamplona in 1924. "The girl brought in a big bowl of hot vegetable soup and the wine,' Hemingway wrote. "We had fried trout afterward and some sort of stew and a big bowl full of wild strawberries."

God bless him!

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/via-francigena/

The current discussions have focussed on the numbers of pilgrims who have received the testimoniam certificate in Rome. Seems that 850 have been handed out since 2001 - 235 since January 2007.
So bro, how do you earn one of these certificates? Well, one website says that you have to walk 100kms to Rome to receive it but another says 150 kms.
4COL can’t they make up th
eir minds? That’s another two days walking at least. If I walked 100km and someone told me to go back and walk another50km for a piece of paper I would be really peeved.

Forum Flavor of the Month again this month is pilgrimage-to-santiago forum with a flurry of posts on all matters peregrinations including a couple of long posts on the hormonal high-jinks of a horny jennet called Dalie.

We have learned that when the jennets are amorous they indicate they are in heat by mouthing as though they are chewing, laying back the ears, posturing and urinating frequently. This is love language to the jack, letting him know that the lady is interested.

What has this got to do with pilgrims to Santiago? Well, Dalie's owner walked to Santiago with her femenino burro and had her shipped back to the south of France in her deluxe horse trailer where she lives in a pasture with another donkey. Altogether now................aaaaahh sweet!!

In the past few months some topics have had huge number of views.

9580 Topic: Is it safe for a female to travel alone
9063 Topic: Pack sizes
7969 Topic: Class of 2008
6985 Topic: To iPod or not to iPod (WTF?)
And, over 3500 views for a Raincoat/Poncho post. (Its obviously been a very wet season!)

There was a longish thread about a guy who was running the camino but most were not impressed. “We saw this guy go blasting through town and wondered what the heck he was about! What a nut!” said one poster.

So, I'll leave you this week with a picture of a bubble-gum chewing, pheremone enhanced peregrino of a different sort!

Sunday, 18 May 2008

Chimneys, Xenophobia, the Angel of Chivalry and an English conundrum

The GoCamino Forum, generated by the American Pilgrims on the Camino (membership numbers unknown), has been in a deep slumber these past few weeks with nothing much to report on here.

The Saint James forum, going since 1999, has 281 members. Of these, only a dozen or so ever post – usually in reply to a query or comment. This group is based in the Caminho de Santiago de Compostela - O Portal Peregrino . The last few months show total posts of 47 March, 52 April and 10 in May.

Ultreya with 312 members, also in the Christianity category, has low volume posts with 42, 32, and 30 for the past three months: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ultreya/ -

The Way of St James Forum in Jacobeo.net has 182 members with no new messages since The Santiago Enigma’ super-sleuth posted 4 convoluted posts in April - which seem to have stopped all the other posters in their tracks. Perhaps they are still trying to decode the Dan-Brownesque clues in the 4 posts?

(Did you know that there is a Camino Refugio Support Group? No? Neither did anyone else – outside the 8 members who have joined since 2005 but haven’t posted since 2006.)

This week the Caminosantiago-Way of St James Forum has been plagued by SPAM posts with links to Lesbian Sex Videos - Mature Naked females and Gang banging adulteresses. Repugnante!!

Grant Spangler’s forum at http://groups.msn.com/ElCaminoSantiago was quiet for a month or so but is up and running again – mostly with queries on transport. Grant is the supremo-go-guru and knows all there is about planes, trains and automobiles on the caminos.

An interesting question was about symbols on the maps:

“Can sombody have a mind to my what's difference at they symbols for herberg at these maps. Colors at symbols am different , has it a few importance?

(I think the maps have been copied from the Mundicamino website but you can see them here)

http://groups.msn.com/ElCaminoSantiago/CaminoMaps3.msnw

And the reply:
“The only difference is the building WITH the chimney has Pilgrim-specific lodging, the building WITHOUT the chimney may have a hostal, hotel, or nothing, but without Pilgrim-specific lodging. The colors of the buildings are of no particular significance.”

So, if you plan on using these maps for your walk and want a pilgrim bed for the night, remember to look out for the chimneys on the buildings.

Santiagobis (owned by Dutchman Michel) grew out of the ashes of a previous Santiago forum that closed about eight years ago – hence the ‘bis’ in Santiago-bis meaning 'twice or double.
Conundrum: My high school Latin taught me that 'bis' is a prefix, so the 'bis' should come at the beginning of the word not at the end. I wonder what others think about this? (Quite frankly my dears, I don't think anyone gives a damn!)
Boasting 1742 members and based in the Religion category of the Yahoo.Groups it appears to have relaxed its moderator stronghold with – shock and horror!! - discussions on religion being allowed to take their course and now Xenophobia has reared its ugly head. This week some peregrinos slated the
inamical French pellerins, others berated the boorish Germans and a few Americanos have been whining about being singled out as polecat, war-mongering George Bush supporters!

This guy posted his opinion :

"The French and Germans are just people and should not be judged as a whole. Groups of both nationalities have made my stays in a few albergues a trial. Both groups hog the kitchen and get the whole barn up at 0530 by talking quite loudly and making an ungodly racket. As individuals and in very small groups they are as anyone else. It just seems they turn up in large groups more frequently."

And was promptly smote down with a hefty smite of the pen (er... keyboard) by one of the moderators in the form of fire and brimstone from the Archangel Michael, who Wiki describes as the Angel of God and the patron saint of chivalry!

"McGurk's remarks, which I have printed below, are insulting, demeaning and a disgrace. McGurk should be ashamed of himself. How patronising to say that individual Germans and French can be house-trained! Especially after saying that they "should not be judged as a whole. I think it's about time that anybody who wants to 'bash the French' or 'kick the German' or 'malign the Pom' should be honest enough to state their own nationality first. Then all the rest of us, who are (or should be) getting rather tired of this whole nonsense, can trot out our diatribe about the writer's nationals, their failings, foibles and irritations. So, I'm an Australian. One of those convict-descended, loud, noisy, beer-swilling, folk with no cultural background. The next time I read a post that begins with: "As an American....." I will rise up and smite the writer with a great and mighty smite.
It should not matter (nor does it make the slightest difference) to the strength of any pilgrim's argument, suggestion or advice as to what nationality they happen to be."

Power-to-the-pilgrims!! Great, tolerant, pilgrim terminology: insulting, demeaning, patronising, disgrace, bash, kick, malign, failings, foibles, irritations, smite.... all in one post!!

The Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela forum – started in October 2004 - seems to have taken up the slack of all the other forums. The forum lists a total posts 22 172 which equates to 6 335 posts per month. Total topics 3 782 and total members 2 723

This week the posts were varied and there was no long thread on any one subject. A new(?) member asked about self-guided tour groups that carry your baggage and make reservations for accommodation and got a big fat slap on the wrist:

My wife and I are hoping to use one of three different self guided tour companies (they carry your bags from town to town and book your rooms). We will be walking from Leon to Santiago in September. Any suggestions? Horror stories? Recommendations? We aren't getting much help from their websites.

A reasonable enough query one might think? Not when it comes to our pellerins.
The first reply was a somewhat snotty comment about ‘these groups’ hogging all the accommodation,
from some poor bugger who is obviously still smarting about not being able to get a bed in Mansilla!

To a large extent I believe that it is these groups that are causing so much of the crowding being experienced at this time. When you have a dozen or two of these folks that are pre-booked far ahead into the hotel(s) in a small town it becomes very difficult to find a place. Three days ago I called three places in Sahagun before I found a room. From Sahagun I called everyplace in Mansilla and found nothing so I ended up coming to Leon. (Sniff, sniff..)

A veteran poster responded:

I think its a bit simplistic to assume that one couple who prefer to stay in hotels and have their luggage carried are to blame for the overcrowding. The overcrowding starts in the albergues and spills over into other accommodation along the route. The camino has taken on such a life of its own that I don't think anyone could have foretold how big it would grow.

And another:

Older pilgrims, particularly, often enough have bone or muscle problems which make it impossible to carry a full load on their backpacks-- it is difficult for the outsider to distinguish between these pilgrims and those who are practising a decaff pilgrimage. Mind you, the only time I ever had accommodation trouble was on the National Day weekend, when all of Spain travels and visits.

And from a local...

I agree, (that groups are overcrowding the camino) but only when these groups begin walking three km. before the albergue and are the first pilgrims to take bed. If they sleep in a hostal there's no problem in my opinion.

On the Via Francigena site things are going at a steady canter. They now have 200 members who posted 35 new messages in a week - a sign that more and more camino-peregrinos are searching for less crowded pastures on the other side of the Pyrenees.

The majority of posts were about backpacks and guide books:

Interesting post on the new Lightfoot Guide books by Babette Gallard and Paul Chinn. I googled the books and found that there are 11 used and new from Amazon.co.uk for £22.46 or – hey Tesco!! from Tesco for £22.79 each (both cheaper than from Pilgrimage Publications)

The LightFoot Guide to the via Francigena consists of two books that together cover the entire length of the via Francigena from Canterbury to Rome. The route given is as historically accurate as possible (passing through each of Sigeric's listed towns), but the Via Francigena as we know it today is the cohesion of many routes chosen by pilgrims over the centuries and in this the LightFoot guide is no different. The recommended route is fundamentally true to the general direction - historical and geographical - but where it led the guide writers into undue danger (as with the SS22 in Italy) or unnecessary discomfort (disused tracks requiring a machete) alternatives are offered. The entire distance is divided into manageable sections of approximately 25 km. In most cases this distance amounts to a comfortable walk for the majority of people, though of course it will also depend on the terrain. For the cyclist, 2, 3 or maybe even 4 stages will represent a day's travel and for the horse rider a great deal will depend on fitness and the route itself, but accommodation is listed along the length of the route and it is entirely up to you and your body where you decide to stop.

Saturday, 10 May 2008

BIG BUCKS ON THE ROADS TO ROME


ALL ROADS LEAD TO ROME
One day this week there were more posts on the Via Francigena Yahoo Group than on Santiagobis - 38 messages in 7 days - that must be a first! Most of the queries were about budgets, hotels and different ways of getting into Rome.
Budgets: An early post was from a member of the Famous Five who said that the average cost of their accommodation was 21.50 euro per night sharing: and that they budgeted 10 euro a night for meals which involved little alleys, tratorias with beaded curtains and Mamas in the kitchen.
Not too shabby, I'm thinking, only about half as expensive as walking el camino and staying in albergues for 8 or 9 euro a night.
But wait - another VF pilgrim posted and hey mon!! I'm learning that these are not all your average pellerinies.
He said, "The average cost of the hotels we stayed in was 71.4 euros per night. The most expensive was 95 euros and the cheapest 50 Euros." Woa!! This is big bucks!
"In relation to the more expensive hotels, if we had the time, weren't exhausted, and other hotels were available we looked for a cheaper alternative. But at other times when we were tired or it was difficult to find a hotel we just checked in regardless of the cost."
Nice! Very nice to be able to disregard the cost - not your run of the mill, backpacking, youth hosteling pilgrem. And what do these poor pilgrims pay for food? Menu del Peregrinos?? Mamas' 10 euro specials? Nah!!
"In relation to the cost of meals its difficult to give you an answer, as it depends on what's available. We sometimes had pizza and wine for under 10 Euros for the two of us; on other occasions we spent up to 85 Euros for a 3/4 course meal + wine in a really nice restaurant." EIGHTY-FIVE EURO FOR A MEAL!!! Nice? Michelin starred, I'm sure!

Q: So what does a walk along ye olde via Francigene cost?
A: Two-and-a-half times that of walking the camino.
"As was posted here a week or two ago whereas the Camino can be budgeted at about 1 euro per km the costs on the Via Francigena currently run at about 2.5 euro per km. This makes your 125 euro for two per day practically on the nail for two people for 900 km in 35 days. As ever this can be undercut or overspent depending on your circumstances and a look at an accommodation list such as the one by the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome will be useful to find the places that others have enjoyed and where there is cheap or expensive accommodation. I know people who have spent much more and also others who have spent much less."
Is it fair to say that at this time, the VF is for higher income 'pilgrims' rather than the younger, budget conscious pilgrim that you see on the caminos?
Do the math.
1€ per km on the camino X 900km = 900€ ($1388.97 or £712.843)

2.5€ per km on the VF X 900km = 2 250€ ($3472,44 or £1782,11)

Wednesday, 7 May 2008

MAY MADNESS and DEATH ON THE CAMINO

OVERCROWDING!! 350 - 400 PEOPLE IN RONCESVALLES!!

These are the most talked about posts on the forums this week.

From http://www.pilgrimage-to-santiago.com/

On April 30th nearly 300 pilgrims crossed the Pyrenees into Roncesvalles. . .so you can imagine what it was like on May 1st. too, they were overwhelmed.

3rd May:
Don't start your walk on a long weekend! Three days ago there was a post on another forum that Roncesvalles was totally overbooked with between 350 and 400 pilgrims. I read this post an a peregrina's blog: This weekend was a holiday weekend for Spain so there were a ton of Spaniards who had taken four days or so to do a chunk of the trail, which is what lots of people do. I continue to be impressed and amazed by the amount of older people and the distances they do each day. Got to an albergue a couple days ago and it was full, which I couldn´t believe, as it was only 3 in the afternoon. Got the last beds in a private one, and others who came later had to sleep on the floor or walk on to the next town.

But it got worse:

My daughter started from Pamplona on Tuesday 29th and by Thursday 1st May everywhere was absolutely packed - they had to work 14 km further than they intended before finding an overflow sports hall with mats on the floor and they have been wrecked ever since . . .

I seem to be in the middle of some kind of bubble of pilgrams and it has been very difficult to find room in the refugios. I had to rent a house in Los Arcos with some other pilgrams and a hotel in Logroño. I know of four people that have left the camino due to the stress of trying to find a bed.

I´m now in Astorga, a long way ahead of where I would have been if Id stuck tó the vague schedule i´d planned. this is partly because i have the flu, had very sore feet but a large part due to not wanting to rush for beds each day. its a bit like an episode of the Amazing Race - if you are not at your destination by about midday-1pm and have you pack in the line outside the albergue you will likely find trouble getting a bed, well at least an inexpensive one, or you may have to walk a lot further.I´ve decided to cut my camino short, laugh about it all and walk only 10-15km a day till i finish on 28 May, that way I can stay in smaller and perhaps less crowded places.

From what I experienced in my starting group, there were many Germans, some French, Italians, English , South Koreans, several Scandanavians,and only a few Americans. There seemed to be a race each morning at 4:30 to see who could get out the door and on the road, to be the first at the refuge at the end of the day. I was a bit surprised and disappointed at some of the rudeness displayed, but in any group ofpeople there will always be a few...

And, on Santiagobis:

Today Tuesday, May 6, a dead pilgrim was found outside Puente La Reina, on the steep slope climbing towards Mañeru. The Navarrese police had cordoned off the area and covered the corpse with a blanket, but itseemed to be a man. I could only see his hiking boots sticking out and his staff nearby. That made me sad. It will be hard to get over that sight for a while. I am reporting from Ciraqui.

News coverage in Diario de Navarra.
French Pilgrim Dies of Heart Attack in Mañeru
Early this morning other pilgrims saw the victim collapse and called SOS Navarra.- The victim was 60 yrs old and lived in the locality of Limoges.A french pilgrim of around 60 years who was walking the Camino de Santiago died this morning as he passed Mañeru due to a possible heart attack as reported by the government. At 8:20 other foreign pilgrims who were walking behind saw how A. G., from Limoges, collapsed as the crossed the rest area near that locality.After calling 112 of Navarra, the first to reach the area were police agents from Estella who were patroling the vicinity. They practiced resuscitation techniques but the pilgrim did not respond. A doctor in Puente de la Reina could only certify his death. His body is currenttly at the Navarra Institute of Legal Medicine where an autopsy will be performed.

REMIND ME NEVER TO WALK A CAMINO IN MARCH OR APRIL

More posts on bad weather in high places: Teenagers trapped in Pyrenees snowstorm rescued after making SOS phone call home.


Date: April 24, 2008 08:53AM
Two British teenagers on a religious pilgrimage to the Pyrenees were rescued from a dangerous mountain path after making an SOS phone call home to their parents. The pair, both 19, came close to succumbing to hypothermia during a snowstorm on the French-Spanish border, close to a spot where another Englishman died. Edward Broad and a friend who has not been named were forced to huddle shivering in sleeping bags after being caught out by the suddenness of the storm. But they raised the alarm by phoning their parents in Wimbledon, South-West London, from the isolated area on the French-Spanish border. Emergency services from France and Spain fought through the treacherous conditions to find them on Tuesday. The young men had to spend a night in hospital but were released yesterday to continue their bicycling pilgrimage to the northern Spanish city of Santiago de Compostela. The route, known as the Camino, has been travelled by Christians since medieval times. A spokesman for the clinic in St Jean Pied de Port, in France, where they were treated, said: "When they arrived here they were in a very bad way, but both are young and they were treated swiftly and efficiently." The teenagers, who are Christians, were on a three-week trip. Edward's mother Margaret said her son had called her from the mountainside and told her not to worry. "He told me everything was fine but I was obviously extremely concerned," she said. "My son's friend had called his parents who had called the police. I knew the emergency services were doing their best to reach them but I was still really worried, as any mother would be. "There is a certain feeling of helplessness when you're stuck in Wimbledon." The area where the pair got into trouble, at 4,000ft, is close to the spot where City banker Chris Phillips, 50, was caught in a blizzard a year ago. He died later in hospital.

Another forum member posted this reply:
I was in SJPDP on the 23rd of April and the weather was warm and sunny at noon time. The refugio does not open till 3:00 or 4:00 PM but there was a notice on the door in English very clearly advising against taking the Napolean route and instead heading toward Valcarlos due to severly inclement weather in the mountains. No idea whether these two young people saw that notice or not. The real point I want to emphasize is that the weather in town was perfect in every way and it would be so understandable to ignore the notice on the refugio door and head for the Napolean route. All first time pilgrims should seriously seek out local information regarding conditions on the mountain before making independent decisions on their own. Not doing so could turn out to be a fatal mistake.

And this from the trail:
22nd April:
O Cebreiro 151 km to go (altitude 1300m)Another high point on the Camino and it is snowing again - 6 inches of snow along the road. Absolutely stunning! The most beautiful time of the year thru this section - steep valleys, gushing rivers and streams, bright green trees, fruit tress in full blossom! Today's long, hard 32km non-stop uphill in the rain and snow was well worth it!Triacastela 130 km to go (altitude 665m) 12 inches of snow overnight, it is still snowing and I am walking!!
Comment: Remind me never to walk el camino in March or April.

Sunday, 20 April 2008

Kids, geeks and more rain and snowon the camino

SUFFER THE LITTLE CHILDREN??

Or, Bugger little children, let them stay at home.

Knight protecting a family of pilgrims:

Credit: Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tamaki

On Santiagobis this week there was some heated (actually, petulant) discussion about taking children on the camino. A family with 6 weeks to spare are planning to take their two children, a 14 month old boy and a six year old girl with them on the Camino Norte. All they wanted was some advice on carts or carriages for the youngsters.

Some of the responses have been less than charitable! One guy started off with a rather sarkie ‘Good Luck’ message and another posted a sniffy warning about crying children disturbing other pilgrim’s meal times and disturbing their sleep in the albergues.

The parent advised the group that they are planning to spend as much time in camp sites as possible. When a member posted a link to a map with campsites and a free brochure on alternative accommodation, the same geek who posted the first reply got all huffy with this response:” Folks, is this a tourism group for Spain or info. about the pilgrimage? I think there is a ifference (sic). Seems getting to be the latte,r thus the issues that are discussed lately.”

OMG!! What a spiff!
This prompted an outraged reply that included Biblical quotes and a slap on the wrist for unkind pilgrims:

I'm really shocked at the attitudes some pilgrims have displayed on this subject -talk about being 'holier than thou'! Poor Dale and family must be feeling really rejected and excluded - not nice! Think about what Jesus said to the disciples when they tried to shoo the children away! (Luke 18:15, Mark 10:13, Matt 19:13)So encountering a young family on the Camino should add a spititual dimension, if anything! I would expect any pilgrim to respond kindly and helpfully if anyone was struggling with a crying baby - or at least, if they're not that way inclined, to put up with it politely, and regard it as any other mildly annoying experience - like pouring rain, people who snore or - shock horror - having to eat food they don't particularly like!
And who on earth (or elsewhere) decreed that it isn't a pilgrimage if you have children with you? What age do you have to be for it to count? What if you have learning disabilities? Or are from another faith or culture? That's ridiculous!
And why is it wrong to offer advice about where to find information about campsites to someone intending to use them, but not to give advice about silk sleeping bags, or train times, or food (again)?
Come on everyone - we all have different plans and motives and prejudices - surely the Camino is about travelling together kindly and unjudgementally and discovering new insights along the Way?
Dale - I apologize on behalf of my fellow santiagobis! I would love to meetup with you and your family whichever route you take!

An erstwhile ex-journo responded to the geek this way:

"I think it´s kinda wandering into the "What´s the difference between a pilgrim and a tourist" territory. Which is always good for a few rounds of invective. Or tinto. Just had a French family this morning with us at Mass. Their two children were ages 8 and 10, well-behaved but looking very worn-out from all the bad weather and walking. (And a noisy, drunken group of fellow pilgrims had kept them awake well into the night last night.)
The 10-year-old said he IS tired, but he still felt the Camino is much more fun than being at school!"

And then the geek responds - but offline, the coward!!

"Forget it. The Way is not a stroll in the Park. The alburgues are not places for screaming kids and diaper changing. There are so many things to do with small children. Why do the Way? I have done the way 2x. I have volunteered in the albergue in León. We had a couple from
Paris using a push cart with 2 very young boys. I was literally driven out of the place by the screaming and out of control behavour of the children. And there were all kinds of concesions that the parents wanted. ¡No! Take the babies to Disneyland or some such. The Way is a Pilgrimage. Not a stunt for parents who want to have been there, done that, got the T-shirt. And yes, I've been with children most of my professional life"

The father replies with admirable restraint:

"Thanks for this. However we realise the pilgrimage is "not a stroll in the Park", if you had read my message you would have seen that we have done the camino three times already from Arles, Porto and Oviedo. Again if you had read my posts you would have seen that we intend not to use the refugios etc but will camp, so there is no fear of anyone having to face our screaming children (I have never heard them scream once!) and or will 'real' pilgrims have to put up with 'diaper changing'. Again if you had read our post you will see that as faithful and committed Catholics we want to take our children on pilgrimage simply to go and worship at the shrine of StJames and
give thanks to God for all the blessings he has given us. It is not therefore a 'stunt' but a giving something back to God for all that he continues to do for us, so if you don't mind we will make our pilgrimage to Compostela and leave our visit to Disneyland for another year. We too have been with children for most of our life my my wife and I are qualified teachers and I have until recently been the RC Chaplain for a Young Offenders Prison for 15-18yr olds."

Does this pacify the geek? No, the arsehole then get's really shitty, racist and chauvanistic at the same time!!

"I stand by what I have said. The Way is not the place for very young children. Do what you will, you're just dragging your kids along as baggage. I did read your post. Why do you think I responded. But you go on and on about what "you" want to do. But what about the baby. Does she want to pray at the Shrine of St James? C'mon woman. You're just one more of these pathetic Americans who want to do what they want to do and how they want to do it. The Way is not a place for babies. 'Nuff said."

The father is a gem of indignant restraint. (Why not just call him a prick and get it over with - jees!) Ah - but all is revealed - he is an Englishman and a gentleman!

Dear Thomas.
First of all our son is no longer a baby but a toddler. Second I am not a 'woman' but a man and third I am not a 'pathetic American' but am from England. I am sure I also do not need to remind you of the place of children in Our Lords heart and ministry. There have been countless number of pilgrims throughtout the world who have gone to thank Him for the blessings of their children and we will be doing the same with or without your support.
You seem to me to be a very rude person, and I will certainly pray for you as we make our pilgrimage that you may have a more generous heart.

So, are the family any the wiser about coping with two children on the camino? Probably not. Has anyone given them any advice? Noooo. Has anyone offered any suggesttions? Not really. Perhaps its time for a guide book on ‘Walking the Camino with Children”. Mmm….. not a bad idea: any wanna-be camino guide book publishers out there?

On the Pilgrimage-to-Santiago website: there were more reports of bad weather, this time pilgrims were snowed in on the hill between O'Cebreiro and Tricastella.
Snow traps cars in Os Ancares and a group of pilgrims in Triacastela
Foto: Xesús Ponte)
The wind and heavy rains, which are in the form of snow higher up, are complicating much movement in the road network in the province of Lugo this Friday, which resulted in four pilgrims being trapped in Triacastela and eighty students could not go to class.
Incidents throughout Galicia
At sea, sources of fishermen's associations of Burela and Celeiro confirmed that the majority of ships of the coastal fleet remained moored at port. The trawlers of coastline dared to go out to fish in the morning, though gradually had to return to shore.
The storm is causing complications in the road network of Lugo. Morning needed the use of chains for driving on the high O Poio, in Pedrafita do Cebreiro, and municipal emergency services had to cut two roads this morning, in the top of Rubiais and in the area between and Rabaceira Veiga da Forca.
As a result of the snow, four pilgrims were trapped at dawn at the height of the statue of the pilgrim located at the top of San Roque, on the road between O Cebreiro and Triacastela. They were later rescued. In addition, several vehicles were trapped because of the snows in the estrada Cereixal O Pino, near the School of Agricultural Training Becerreá; and Cervantes, a truck responsible for the collection of dead animals became trapped by snow in the CP-1402.
Snow left college to eighty children in the province, in the municipalities of Triacastela, Navia of Suarna, Cervantes, Folgoso do Courel and Pedrafita do Cebreiro. The council has been concerned over the latter, where the college of the capital city, with 46 students, remains closed.
Moreover, the Civil Guard reported that during the night there were many complications with the wind on numerous secondary roads in the province, since demolished more than a dozen trees on different roads.
In the port of Burela, two boats with crews were to drift until one succeeded in tow to another. In addition, the fisheries of the fence 'Agarimo Dous' broke loose from their moorings, as a result of strong wind and collided with another ship. In this town mariñana saw one of the largest wind gusts of Galicia, of 126 miles per hour.
In the provincial capital, firefighters also had to act morning to remove a cornice that had been detached from the facade of the building number 8 Unidade de la Rua and threatened to fall on public roads, because of strong wind.

And, two more reports of heavy rains:
We are also having bad weather. The other night we had up to 120 km/h winds and poring rain... today, only "normal" rain and clouds. Just saw the weather report on TVE and I saw rain all over Spain for the weekend. Snow over 1300 meter was reported.

And: The same bad weather in the Madrid area, too, raining dogs and cats. ¡¡Wonderful!! water is very, very necessary here in Spain after a son dry autumn and soft winter.

And what's been happening on the other forums? The Caminosantiago forum has been fairly quiet with a hodge-podge of how-to-get-there, what-to-take posts.

On the Via Francigena site a fellow is making his 2nd attempt at reaching Roma:
As I mentioned some months ago, last year in September I had to stop may way from Marburg, Germany, where I live, to Rome due to problems with my leg. Now I am feeling well again so that I can restart in a couple of days from the point where I had to stop. On 24th of April I will go by train to Ivrea do do the final about 800 kilometres from there. Please cross fingers that I may reach my goal.

Just hope the bad weather they are having in Spain does not spill over into Italy. It won't be fun crossing the marsh lands or the Cisa Pass if the trails are mud and slush.

Sunday, 6 April 2008

Coeliac pilgrims, lost pilgrim and a new look Francigena website

On the pilgrimage-to-santiago forum there was an interesting post about wheat allergies:

http://www.pilgrimage-to-santiago.com forum

An update from the road - on the stretch from Pamplona to Burgos I have found no difficulties at all. eg Bar Basseri in Pamplona advertises a gluten free menu in its window. Breakfast - drinking yogurt, chocolate milk, the ever available tortilla in a bar. Lunch, picnic from a shop, or another tortilla. Dinner- usually the pilgrim menu. safe options include beans (alubias) lentils (lentejas) judias verde (green beans) and for the second course fish or meat "asado" or "a la plancha". Postre - frutas or yogurt. In albergues with kitchens, i cook risotto for the evening, flavoured with a tin of something - squid in salsa americaine, or en su tinta is good, as is the tinned lentil or bean stew with chunks of meat or chorizo ( but read the labels on those tins as some contain gluten). As rice is heavy, I put enough rice for a single portion in a plastic bag and carry that with me. in albergues where there is a rice mountain - eg 6 bags in one place, I use that instead. When I have needed to buy it, I leave the rest behind. If starting out again, I would bring a couple of bags, no more, of quinoa as it cooks so quickly and for a treat when I can't face rice again.I also carry a tin of sardines in tomato sauce as an emergency snack, and try to carry a couple of pieces of fruit. The real challenge is getting enough carbohydratge to fuel the walking- lots of sugar in the morning coffee, bananas, other fruit, choosing paella or beans on a menu whenever available, are all working out just fine. In one place I cooked rice pudding with milk and sugar in the morning - but I had the half hour to do it and that isnt always the case.

Everyone has been very helpful when I've needed it. The celiac condition is known and understood in Spain. In my bad fractured spanish, I point to myself and say "celiaca"; "una cena sin gluten, sin pan, sin harina, sin pasta, sin trigo...por favor" has always worked just fine. In the one albergue where there was a set dinner offered and no restaurant in the village, the hospitalero cooked me an omelette for the main course while everyone else had meatballs in sauce.
Finally - some places with special menus - allegedly all the paradores have a gluten free menu available for all meals. Bar Basseri, in Pamplona. The albergue in Najera has a list of restaurants at the desk and one states that it has a gluten free menu. El Corte Ingles department store - the cafeteria in Bilbao has a gluten free menu of pizza, croquettas, chocolate tart, and gluten free beer. The food shop also sells the standard European range of GF products - cakes, biscuits breads etc.

And also one about new refuges and upgrades to the VDLP route:

The Ourense province has just allocated 5 Million Euros to the betterment of the Camino facilities in the province, including the building of six new albergues: One each in “A Mezquita”, in “Vendas de Barreira”, in “Feces” in “Cualedro”, in “Campo Becerros” and in “Alariz”.
Ruben Lois, in charge of the project, declared that the province of Ourense aims to have a public albergue every 25 kilometers, in addition to the existing albergues and those in the City of Ourense itself.
Ourense is the last leg of one of the alternate endings of the Via de la Plata. Many Via de la Plata pilgrims opt to join the Camino Frances in Astorga, bypassing Ourense. This is possibly understandable since the Ourense route adds some kilometers to the Camino; on the other hand, the albergues there are not crowded and pilgrims who go through Ourense could not be better served. The city itself is very interesting; its Cathedral contains a second “Portico de Gloria” which maintains its original colorings, and a great many Camino treasures. The actual arrival in Santiago from Ourense crossing the river Ulla is enormously moving and spiritually significant…. particularly when compared to arriving in Santiago through industry-sated Lavacolla and its airport.
Ourense was deemed a city of “witches”, perhaps because of its sulphuric hot waters that spout everywhere. Many pilgrims arriving at Ourense take hot baths and swear that they become free from tiredness and aches. The nearby province of Pontevedra has also announced the allocation of one and a half million Euros to improve the facilities of the Camino that crosses the province. Their plans include the building of a new albergue at Castro Dazon. The above projects are expected to be completed by next year’s summer, in anticipation of the Xacobean Holy Year in 2010.
In Seville, meanwhile, there will be meetings and conferences at the end of May to discuss ways and means in which the province can improve, and promote, the Via de la Plata which, it is felt, is the oldest of the routes to Santiago, and the one more historically significant. The province of Seville fairly covers the whole of Andalucia, including Granada, Cordoba, Malaga, Cadiz (the oldest city, per se, in Europe), etc. The province is enormously influential, as is its government which sits in the provincial capital, the city of Seville. So much interest in the Via de la Plata has been evidenced there of late that I expect that their plans and contributions will be something else.
Sevillians appear to happily inhabit a universe of their own and rarely seem to take notice of other places and peoples, so the upsurge of interest in the Via is most unusual.
Even at the Macarena Confraternity meetings assistance to Via pilgrims has been mentioned, which is most surprising.

Santiagobis was rather quiet this week – the only post of interest was for a lost friend:
Our friend Peter Shaw ("Pete") began the Camino Frances on his bicycle on September ll, 2007 l5 kilometers southwest of Pamplona. By September l5th he was 80 kilometers from Burgos, and by Oct. 3rd he had found a nice alberga 25 kilometers out of Leon. The last E-Mail we got from him was on Oct. 3rd in which he wrote "..I finished the camino to Santiago and now onward to Finester". He also mentioned that he planned to do the Camino Portuguese by bike along the coast to Porto. He requested and we sent him $200 by Western Union to Porto for a new passport, and after that we never heard from him again. (Western Union says the money was cashiered, so he must have gotten it)
So Peter has been out of touch/missing for about 5 months now. Before this he was a very regular E-mail correspondent so it doesn´t make any sense ? Peter is a young-looking 56 yr. old Englishman of average height with blondish hair. He is an artist and often works on the street for tips. ´He spent several years in Barcelona working in the touristic ´barrio gothico´ and he has also traveled widely throughout Europe. Most recently he spent an extended period in Ireland. If you met Peter on the Camino or have any information about him that might help us locate him, please contact either one of us by E-mail:
Jaderge@...
Hadass33@...
Thank you very much and we sincerely hope that with your help we will soon find our friend Peter...
Hadass & Jacques

And - a past pilgrim, Jonathan Drane, has set up a website to find lost pilgrims:

http://www.jondrane.net/fp/Camino%20de%20Santiago-Find%20a%20Pilgrim.htm

On the Caminosantiago forum -The post with the most views and most replies was a request for members to name the one albergue that they would not like to have missed:

Gannon, Manjarin, Ruitelan, Torres del Ria, Casa Mari: Molinaseca - Meson el Palacio. the CSJ albergue at Rabanal. L'espirt du Chemin in St Jean Pied de Port and el Ganso,

I was really surprised that no-one recommended Hospital San Nicolas (where the monks was your feet) Ave Fenix at Villafranca del Bierzo, Eunate Santa Maria or even San Bol.

On the Via Francigena pilgrimage site there was news about a new look website for the AIVF and two new guides - the first English Guides for walking from Canterbury to Rome:

http://www.francigena.ch/newsite/index.php?lang=en

The 2 books are complete and available for distribution:

ISBN 9782917183014 "LightFoot Guide to the via Francigena Canterbury
to the Summit of the Great St Bernard Pass"

ISBN 9782917183021 "LightFoot Guide to the via Francigena - Summit of
the Great St Bernard Pass to St Peter's, Rome"
The listing of the books is being passed to Gardeners (wholesaler) and Amazon, but may take a couple of weeks for all listings to be updated. In the meantime there is a shop facility on:

http://pilgrimagepublications.com/UKShop/PayPal/ppbooks.html

The price is 23.99 GBP per volume. The total price compares
reasonably with the combined cost of the old VF Topos and Vademecum."